Totally Uncoup

Court holidays in Uganda come early and often throughout the year.  Sometimes they come unexpectedly.  Last Wednesday, the government declared this Wednesday to be a national holiday — NRM day.  NRM stands for the National Resistance Movement, which is the ruling political party of Uganda.  Imagine if President Obama declared next Wednesday to be National Democratic Party Day.

The timing of this holiday was strategic, as talk of a military coup has been dominating the headlines for the last week.  President Museveni, the head of the NRM party, is increasingly embattled this year – his 27th in power.  As President, he is also head of the military and came to power himself in 1986 as a result of a military coup.  A few of the top generals have made some public comments, implying that another coup has been under discussion, though they have recently tried to walk back these comments, claiming they were hypothetical and only intended to increase pressure on Museveni’s government to crack down on a recent spate of corruption.  By calling a public holiday, Museveni curries favor with the working class (because they don’t have to work), and generates lots of media stories about the progress NRM has made for the country during the past 27 years in power.

The timing of the court holiday, however, put some extra pressure on my meeting schedule while I am here in town this week.

On Tuesday morning, I hired a driver to take me out to Henry’s school so I could pay his school fees for this first term, which started on Monday.  (A quick shout out to my parents, who are graciously footing the bill for Henry’s top-flight education).  I had a chance to spend a little time with one of Henry’s teachers while I was out there, and arranged to hire a few tutors for Henry so he can have the best chance possible of excelling in his last year of secondary education before starting university.

The next stop was a meeting with the registrar of the court of appeals.  I am trying to manage my expectations (because I have been disappointed before), but it now looks like the appeal I will be arguing will take place in mid-March in the capital city of Kampala.  I should know more next week.

Since I released my driver when he dropped me at the court of appeals, I took a boda from there over to the Commercial Court to meet up with David.  This time, I selected a driver without a helmet.  This equalized our survival incentives.  Unsurprisingly, this ride was much less harrowing than Monday’s.

David’s driver Daniel drove us to our scheduled lunch with a US Embassy official.  I had met this official when I lived in Kampala last June and wanted to both re-connect with him and to introduce him to David.  When I last met with this official, I had told him about J-FASTER and about the plans we had for it.  He was quite interested and wanted to be briefed on the successes since we last talked.  We also talked about the potential of partnering on future adult justice projects.  It was an excellent meeting, but nothing firm emerged.

From there, I went to the High Court and met with Chief Justice Odoki – the father of Uganda’s legal system.  He will be sorely missed when he reaches the mandatory retirement age of 70 in the next few months.  We then met with the judge who is handling the J-FASTER session scheduled to open next week.  This judge is the one I worked for most directly during my sabbatical stay in Kampala in 2012.  He was pleased to hear about the successful plea bargaining session on Monday.  We also discussed my idea for taking the next step in the expansion of plea bargaining to the adult realm.  No announcement yet, but it looks quite promising for a June launch.  (Joline, Jessica (my oldest), and I will be returning to Uganda for four weeks this summer).

David and I closed the evening with a great dinner with Justice K and his wife, and Justice Mike Chibita and his wife.  I had only briefly met Justice Chibita during my first trip to Uganda in January of 2010.  At the time, he was not on the bench, but was running Uganda’s version of the IRS and was also serving as President of the Uganda Christian Lawyers’ Fraternity.  He is now the Resident Judge for Fort Portal, which is located in southwestern Uganda, near where the Gorillas chill in the mist.  Justice Chibita has been a great friend and mentor to two of our prior Nootbaar Fellows – John Napier and Brett LoVellette.  It appears that our June project will allow me to work rather closely with Justice Chibita, and perhaps to get to know a few of the Silver Back gorillas in the region as well.

My date with Nyquil ended the evening on a rather pleasant note.

*          *          *

The national holiday on Wednesday slowed down the pace of things considerably, except on the roads.  The nightmarish Ugandan traffic all but disappears on Sundays . . . and on holidays.  Everyone stays home or goes to church.  This allowed me free reign in the city.

Next weekend, Pepperdine Law’s Nootbaar Institute for Law, Religion, and Ethics is hosting an international conference on Inter-Country Adoption.  I had the idea for this conference after getting involved in a handful of these cases while I was here in Uganda in early 2012.  This conference will wrestle with the theological, ethical, political, and legal aspects of what some call “orphan care” and others call “child trafficking.”  Here is a link to this conference.  Speakers from all over the world will spend two full days discussing best practices and potential solutions to the world-wide orphan crisis.  Two such speakers (Mark Riley and Isaac Obiro) will be traveling from Uganda to participate in a case-study panel focusing on what is happening on the ground in Uganda.  The third panelist will be Sara Ribbens who, along with her husband Andy, adopted two Ugandan children in 2012.  I have become quite close with, and fond of, both Mark and Isaac, both of whom occupy different ends of the IA spectrum.  Mark is a Brit who works with the Ugandan government and UNICEF to develop and implement systems to resettle abandoned children with either their families or with other Ugandan foster parents.  For his part, Isaac is a lawyer who handles both domestic and Inter-country adoptions.

We met for an hour or so discussing next week’s panel, on which I will be serving as moderator.  I also had a chance to meet an American woman named Darby Priest.  Darby is a fellow ACU grad and a friend of my dear friends (the Istres).  She has been in Uganda for a few months working with Mark and Keren Riley is assisting them with the in-country resettlement of orphans.

David and I later had lunch with Edith Ssempala, former Ugandan Ambassador to the United States.  During my time here last year, I introduced Ambassador Ssempala to my friends at Sixty Feet, and she has since begun working with them in an advisory role.  It was good to connect her with David.  This woman’s faith permeates everything she says and does, and I always feel refreshed after spending time with her.

In the afternoon, David and I met with a lawyer who is working on a country-wide (and well-funded) project with UNICEF dealing with all aspects of caring for children.  She said she had been hearing about the J-FASTER program from lots of quarters and wanted to explore ways to partner with us.  The meeting was quite successful and will lead to several meetings with various groups who could assist in expanding the reach of our work.

I turned in early because Thursday promised to be a long day of driving and meetings on the eastern coast of Uganda.

Settling In

After a memorable trip and first day back in Uganda, Monday held the promise of a day I could really settle in – literally.  One of the main purposes of this trip was to work on settling – by way of plea bargaining – the cases against all of the juveniles in the Naguru Remand Home whose charges had been committed to the High Court.

The Naguru Remand Home, located in the capital city of Uganda, is home to about 150 children who have been arrested and charged with crimes.  These juveniles (ranging in age from 12 to 17) are warehoused at Naguru until they get their day in court.  The charged crimes are divided into two categories – capital and non-capital offenses.  The capital offenses – those eligible for the death penalty if committed by adults – are assigned to the High Court, which is Uganda’s trial court level.  The maximum sentence a juvenile can receive for a capital offense is three years in prison.  The non-capital offenses, those carrying a maximum sentence of one year, are referred to the lower Magistrate Courts.

Of the 150 kids at Naguru, about 50 of them are charged with capital offenses.  But before they can go to court, their cases must be committed to the High Court, which means that the police investigation needs to conclude and the prosecution must prepare an indictment.  There is nothing we can do to help them before this committal happens.  Once they are committed, however, we can move their cases along toward trial or other disposition.

The J-FASTER program we developed and are implementing moves these cases capital cases quickly through the system by assigning the juveniles a lawyer from the Uganda Christian Lawyers Fraternity (UCLF), and getting their cases onto a cause list.  Over the past few months, David Nary has been working with the UCLF, the Judiciary, the prosecution, the governmental agency over the Remand Homes, and Sixty Feet.  Sixty Feet is the Atlanta-based Christian NGO that is critical to making this entire thing happen.  Their generous and unwavering support of these imprisoned kids provides the resources for the entire enterprise.

Yesterday was the culmination of all of the planning – the plea bargaining session.  All 21 kids whose cases had been committed to the High Court are represented by UCLF lawyers.  Fifteen of us gathered around a boardroom table yesterday and discussed each of the 21 cases.  By the end of the six-hour session, we had reached a tentative resolution on 18 of the 21 juvenile cases.  Over the next few days, the settlements will be finalized.  On Monday of next week, the trials for the remaining cases, if any, will be scheduled for trial, which will take place over the ensuing three or four weeks.

While a majority of the juveniles whose cases settled on Monday will still need to serve a few more months under the plea agreements, they now know when they will be going home.  In the past, most of them would still be waiting a year from now to hear when they might get a court date.

After we concluded the day’s proceedings, I got a call from a courier hired by Kenya Airways – he had my bags.  It was nice to get fresh clothes . . . and the four pillows with which I am accustomed to traveling.

David and I had a good Mexican food dinner at Lotus Mexicana and discussed the rest of the upcoming week.  The five-mile ride home took nearly two hours in the car I hired to take me and my bags back to the Sixty Feet compound for the evening.  Yes, traffic blows even at 8:00 p.m.  But I was glad that having my bags with me gave me an excuse not to take a boda boda home.

One Year Later . . . Same Uganda

One year ago – to the day – I made the same journey from California to Kampala that I just completed this weekend.  So many things have changed during that intervening year.  I have changed in ways I am still trying to fully appreciate.  Our kids have changed in ways we can see, and ways we daily pray about.

Too many things, however, remain the same.  The three-flight, 24-hour energy-draining marathon journey still bites.  Hard.  Try as I might, I can’t seem to get the scheduled sleeping thing sorted out.  Not that I didn’t try.  I went to the doctor to get a prescription of Ambien so I could catch some pharmaceutical “zzzs” on the plane.  She was a new doctor, so I didn’t tell her I had a few pills left over from an earlier trip.  Hey – she didn’t ask.

Dr. Feelgood told me that she could prescribe the 5mg or 10mg pills.  Last time, Dr. DoLittle had given me the 5mg type, which had proven rather ineffectual.  I think I responded a little too eagerly to the 10mg suggestion, so Dr. Feelgood hesitated and told me “the FDA is concerned about over-prescription of Ambien, and that their studies show that 5mg is sufficient to blah, blah, blah, blah.”

“I don’t want the nickels – I need the dimes.  Can I have some please, please, please?”

She paused for a moment, so I pointed to the pictures of twin girls on her wall – “Are those your daughters?  They’re soooo cute.”

She beamed, told me their names, then wrote me the script for the dimes.  Flattery works every time.

Well, fast forward to the first leg of the flight on Saturday.  When the time was ripe for me to pull a Rip Van See Ya for the last four or five hours of the LA to Amsterdam flight, which is when my Ugandan counterparts were sleeping, I pulled out the magic bottle of dreams and shook it into my palm.  Out came several dimes . . . and a nickel I had added to the bottle when I was packing.  I was pretty tired, and since Dr. Feelgood had said that the FDA studies showed no difference, I popped the nickel.  Dumb.  Really, really, really, dumb.

To say the nickel didn’t do Jack Squat to put me to sleep would be charitable to Jack.  Jack didn’t crouch, or even hunch, let alone squat.  His knees stayed locked the entire time.  This, of course, meant that I slept most of the second flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi, Kenya.  On that flight, Jack not only squatted, he folded like he was dealt a 2-7 offsuit up against a pair of Aces.  Consequently, I managed to get myself exactly backward on the sleep cycle.

And things only got better from there.

The layover in Kenya was 90 minutes – plenty of time for the hard-working, quick-thinking luggage jockeys to ride the suitcases from Gate A to Gate B in the relatively small airport.  I was sure things were on the right track when I was upgraded to First Class for the one-hour trip into Uganda.

But TIA – the oft-repeated phrase acknowledging things don’t always go according to plan in a developing world.  After all, “This is Africa.”

Having had my luggage delayed on two of my nine prior flights to Uganda, I was the first in the crowd to sense a problem.  I raced to the baggage desk and got there just ahead of the other 29 passengers whose luggage was also playing hide and seek.  Anarchy would be an understated description of the scene that followed.  Fortunately, I got my paperwork in and got out of the airport before the two South African mothers of screaming infants could completely dismember the hapless (and helpless) paper pusher at Kenyan Airways.  The one bright spot in this episode is that I learned a few new cuss words in Africaans.

David Nary (Pepperdine Nootbaar Fellow in Uganda for a year) and his trusty driver Daniel were waiting for me in the passenger arrival lobby.  The next flight in from Nairobi was not due to arrive until 9:00 a.m. the next morning, so there was no reason to stick around.

“Let me just stop at the Barclays ATM and get some cash,” I said.  Insert card.  Enter password.  Select amount.  400,000 shillings ($150).  Thank You.  Printing receipt.  Take cash.  Take Cash.  TAKE CASH.

No cash.  Just a metaphorical middle finger staring at me through the blinking slot where my cash was supposed to be.  The good thing, however, was that I had a receipt that said I actually received the air cash.  Perfect.

I looked around and noticed a security camera pointed at the ATM.  I figured it couldn’t hurt to make a record of the unfolding events, so I played a little game of charades.  I did my best your-satanic-machine-ate-my-money-and-I-am-about-to-throat-punch-the-keypad skit.  I wouldn’t be surprised if it made some sort of year-end YouTube awards show.  It was that convincing.

*          *          *

The kind folks from Sixty Feet (Kelsey, Kirby, and crew) have graciously allowed me to stay with them (again) while I am in Uganda, so I arrived at their place around 1:00 a.m.  This time, however, I wasn’t messing around with The Sandman.  I popped a dime like it was a Skittle – 10mg of Ambien.  Ten minutes later, I couldn’t see straight.  Eleven minutes later, I couldn’t stand up.  Twelve minutes later, I was drooling.

Four hours later, it was time to get ready for fun-filled day of plea bargaining.  And hey, I was already dressed in the best clothes I had available to me.

*          *          *

Since I will be spending most of the week with David Nary, and since he has own court-provided driver, I decided not to rent a car during this trip.  This left me responsible, however, for getting myself to and from the Kampala suburb where I am staying each day.  Kampala’s automobile traffic makes LA gridlock feel like Utah highway driving during the annual BYU v. Utah football game.  There is simply no way to get anywhere quickly in the city . . . except on a boda boda.  So against my better judgment (oxymoron?), I sauntered up to a motorcycle stand and pointed toward town.

My next mistake was picking a driver wearing a helmet.  My facially Einsteinian logic reasoned that people who wear helmets are safety conscious; people who are safety conscious about themselves will be safety conscious about others; I am an other.  Makes sense, right?

Well, had my head not been wedged firmly in my own tailpipe, I would have would reasoned that people who wear helmets are less likely to get injured in a crash; people less likely to be injured in a crash worry less about being in a crash; people who worry less about being in a crash do less to avoid a crash; I am on the back of boda being driven by someone not worried about being in a crash.

On the bright side, it had started raining.  Still more encouraging was the fact that it hadn’t rained in a while so there was a thin layer of dust and oil on the road.  Better still, the driver’s tires were balder than my kids keep telling me I will be someday soon.  At least I didn’t have to change underwear once we arrived (remarkably safely) at our destination – I didn’t have any underwear to change into because . . . they were still in Kenya with the rest of my belongings.

Speaking of my kids’ tendency to shovel compliments my direction, the one about me getting fat also resurfaced Monday morning.  David was kind enough to loan me a shirt, tie, and suit jacket, when I arrived at court.  I fell just a hair shy (only a sixth of a yard) of being able to squeeze myself into his 32-inch waist suit pants.  The result threatened to land me on the front page of the Onion’s parody of GQ.  Don’t believe me?  Take a look.

Enough Said.

 

Can we agree that I had a bad day?

Boarding Gate 9 7/8

I am returning to Uganda today for a fast-paced week of juvenile prison visits and plea bargaining in Kampala, Mbale, Masindi, and Gulu.  While I have flight reservations on KLM, I figured I would first try my newly installed “Doorway to Uganda” to see if it provides me a shortcut.

I have previously posted here about my profound surprise at the cool gift Bob Goff had given me last fall – the door he ripped off of the prison where I first met Henry in Masindi, Uganda.  After much thought and many great suggestions from friends, Joline and I decided how we were going to display this door.  We hired the contractor who had made several upgrades to our Pepperdine home (Tom Borland) to mount the door onto a wall in a way that will allow us to display photos of the kids who used to live behind that door, but now are back home with their families.

We were thrilled with what he came up with.

Masindi Prison Door

We are still getting the individual photos of the former prisoners reprinted and mounted with magnetic backings, but we started with a group photo from January of 2010, and photo of me, Henry, and his brother Joseph.

Masindi Prison Door Open

Masindi Prison Door Open

 

 

Despite approaching Boarding Gate 9 7/8 from many different angles and at many different speeds, the doorway seems embued with none of the Potterian or Narnian qualities necessary to allow me to avoid the upcoming 27-hour flight.

Boarding Gate 9 7/8

Daily updates from what is fast becoming my second home will be forthcoming.

It’s a Boy!

Over the past few years, I have done several things I had previously been certain I would never do.  Bungee jumping, living and driving in Uganda, admitting I needed glasses, etc.  Continuing this stretch of firsts, last week I was asked to name a newborn Ugandan boy.  In fact, the father of the boy insisted that the baby would not have a name unless I stepped up.  Talk about pressure.

So who is the baby boy?  He is Henry’s little brother.

Near the end of our stay in Uganda, Henry’s mother (in her early 40s) was experiencing what she thought were problems associated with high blood pressure.  Dr. Jay Gregston (father in our Twin Family) reviewed the meds she had been prescribed and provided some friendly physician guidance.  When Henry arrived home from school at the end of November, his mother told him that she just learned that she was pregnant . . . and due in less than a month.  As you might expect, the pre-natal care in Uganda falls well below western standards.

For a while, labor pains and contractions pointed toward a Christmas Day birth.  Henry and I talked or texted day after day, but no baby.  Finally, just after midnight Uganda time on January 7th, I received a text from Henry asking me urgently to pray for his mother.  I immediately complied.  Fifteen minutes later came the news that the child had been born and that all was well.  Praise God!

A short while later, Henry texted me again saying that his father wanted me to give the baby his two names.  (In the Ugandan villages, there are no family names – just two names.  Usually, one is an English name and one is an African name).  I immediately picked up the phone and called him.

Me: “Um, your text sounded like I am supposed to give this boy his names.  Are you serious?”

Henry: “Yes, my dad said you need to provide both of his names.”

Me: “I wouldn’t know where to start.  Is your father serious?”

Henry:  “Yes, he said that the boy will not have a name unless you name him.”

Me:  “Well, I guess I could give him his English name, but I don’t know any Runyoro tribe names.”

Henry:  “Any two names you choose are fine.  He does not need a Runyoro or African name.  Just pick two names.”

Me:  “OK, let me call you back.”

I tracked down Joline and informed her of my (our) weighty responsibility, and then we got started.  We got on Google and tooled around a bit looking for inspiration.  We had only named three babies before, and each of those names started with a J.  Make it four.

We immediately gravitated toward Biblical names and kicked around a few of those before settling on Josiah – the Biblical boy king who found favor with God – for one of the names.  For his other name, we decided to suggest a few names that would have significance to how Henry and I met.  The names we suggested were Robert (after Bob Goff, the guy who inspired me to journey to Africa in the first place), Justice (what we jointly sought together after we first met), and James (my given name).  I texted these three names to Henry.  A few minutes later, the boy had a name – James Josiah.

In other news, the door to the prison where I met Henry, which Bob Goff brought me last fall from Uganda, is now installed in its final resting place – pictures in the next few days.

Also, on Friday, I booked a ticket back to Uganda at the end of this month.  I will be there for just over a week as the next juvenile justice session begins.

Promotion

As I have previously written about here, this past school term was critically important for Henry, the Ugandan boy with whom I have become quite close.  It was the third term (of three) in Secondary Five, the next-to-last-year of school before beginning University studies.  After finishing his “A level” (Secondary One through Four) near the top of his class at Bob Goff’s Restore Leadership Academy in Gulu, Henry enrolled in the top Secondary School in the country for his “O Level” to focus on what amounts to pre-med – they take only Physics, Chemistry, Biology, and Math.  In order to be promoted to Secondary Six, Henry and his 280 classmates each needed to earn a cumulative score of ten in the final term, which ended in late November.  Unfortunately, Henry fell just short, along with a sizable portion of the class.  Needless to say, this news was hard to take.

Scrambling for options for Henry proved quite challenging from the United States, and I even contemplated getting back on a plane.  After trading e-mails with the Head Teacher with whom I had become friendly, we scheduled a phone call.  During this call, the Head Teacher agreed to meet with Henry two days later to discuss his future.  Because Henry lives in Hoima — four hours away from the capital city of Kampala where the school is located — this would normally have presented a major challenge.  Providentially, Henry was scheduled to travel back to Kampala that very day for a five-day trip to South Africa we had arranged for him join with several of his classmates.

I spoke with Henry just before his meeting with the Head Teacher and gave him a pep talk.  We agreed I would call him one hour later to learn whether he had been promoted to Secondary Six or whether we would need to quickly explore other options.  After a painfully suspenseful (and prayerful) hour, I dialed Henry’s number.  He immediately answered in a whisper, “we are still talking . . . please call in fifteen minutes.”  More waiting, more praying (with Joline and the kids).  Fifteen minutes and four seconds later, I dialed again.  “I am praising God,” was all I remember.  Henry’s effort and determination had convinced the Head Teacher to promote him to Secondary Six.

The next day, Henry boarded an airplane for the first time in his life.  We talked twice while he was in South Africa, and he had a great time.  His world got bigger as he experienced a glimpse of life in the developed world.  One of the goals of this trip was to establish a track record of Henry leaving Uganda and returning to the country.  This is an important consideration in the US Embassy’s decision about whether or not to grant a visa to Henry down the road.  While we don’t have a trip scheduled yet, we are doing our best to lay the foundation for his eventual visit to the United States.

When Henry returned to Hoima, he learned that Big Jim was causing some trouble in the neighborhood.  As discussed here, Big Jim is the bull my former students and my family purchased for Henry’s family (along with a small herd of cows, a flock of chickens, and a couple pigs) to replace what they lost when Henry, his brother, and father were wrongly imprisoned.  While Big Jim had done his job – he had impregnated four of Henry’s family’s cows and several of the neighbor’s cows – he had also broken several fences and had a penchant for disappearing for days at a time in search of other “gardens” to plant his “seed.”  Finally, enough was enough.  But as a gift that keeps on giving, Big Jim was sacrificed earlier today (Christmas Eve) so Henry’s family could have a Christmas feast and sell the rest of the meat.

In other Uganda news, the next J-FASTER session for juvenile prisoners is scheduled to take place in Kampala in late January, with another one scheduled at a Remand Home in Mbale (East of Kampala) in February.  I may be headed back there in conjunction with these sessions and/or to argue (finally) Henry’s appeal.  I still have no hearing date, but I am growing increasingly confident that it will be heard in the first quarter of 2013.

From the Inside Out

As I reflect on the almost unimaginable events of Wednesday in Kampala, a line from one of my favorite songs continues to loop in my head “. . . from the inside out, Lord, my soul cries out.”

I am beginning to feel like the Boy Who Cried Goff.  There are only so many times one can characterize a day as “one of the most memorable in my life” before some serious integrity questioning seeps in.  But put me under oath, hooked up to a polygraph machine, and water board me – my story won’t change.  It was truly one of those had-to-be-there-to-fully-appreciate-it days, but I will give it my best shot.  Though this post will be longer than usual, I promise to make it worth the read.

Let me begin with some important background information.  There is this fantastically whimsical guy named Bob Goff.  I met him in mid-October of 2009.  Nine weeks later I was on a plane to Uganda.  Two years later, I was sitting in the warden’s office at Luzira, Uganda’s maximum security prison, with Bob, a court official named Margaret, and an honest-to-badness Witch Doctor name Kabi.  (Kabi was serving life for castrating a young boy as part of a ritual ceremony.  Miraculously, the boy I have called Hero in prior posts survived and testified against Kabi in a trial attended, funded, and orchestrated by Bob).  Bob had invited me to go with him to visit Kabi at Luzira: “I am going to talk to him about Jesus, you should come.”  So I did.

I have previously written about that memorable encounter here, but suffice it to say that Bob talked to Kabi about Jesus, and Kabi listened.  Not only did he listen, he obeyed.  It was surreal.  About six months later, while I was living with my family in Kampala, Bob returned to Uganda and again invited me to join him on a visit to see Kabi.  He was a changed man.  Exit witch doctor, enter Jesus follower.  I wrote about that encounter here.  At the end of that visit, Kabi declared that if he ever got out of prison, he wanted to be an evangelist.  As we were leaving, Bob said, “Next time we come, we should totally talk to the rest of the prisoners in Luzira about Jesus with Kabi – how cool would that be?”  “Next time” was this past Wednesday.

It pulverized the cool meter.  Nothing left but dust.

A group of about fifteen of us arrived at Luzira in the late morning.  Accompanying Bob on a week-long trip in conjunction with a graduation ceremony at the school in Gulu he runs were folks from all over the United States, including Bob’s film-maker son, Richard.  Also in the group was Margaret, the court official/preacher lady who was with us when Kabi surrendered his life to his Savior.  Hero, the boy Kabi carved up, lives with Margaret now and he came as well, though he stayed in the parking lot, far from the prisoners.  We were ordered to leave in our cars all phones, cameras, or anything else that could record what would happen inside.  Things were a bit chaotic as we went through security because of the size of our group.  Consequently, one or more of our team members didn’t actually get frisked or wanded.  From security, we were ushered into the warden’s office.  The memories of the first two meetings with Kabi flooded back.

The warden, who had been lurking in the background during both of our prior visits with Kabi in his office, instantly remembered Bob and greeted him warmly.  After exchanging some pleasantries, the warden informed Bob that all arrangements had been made and that the prisoners had been told that some people were coming to preach to anyone who was interested in listening.  Bob was effusive with gratitude and explained that he had gone shopping and brought some things with him for the prisoners – lots of soap and sugar.  The warden was pleased.

What happened next was quite remarkable.  Bob used some sort of mind control techniques I have only seen on television to convince the warden to do something he never would have agreed to do, even for a scrillion shillings.  It went something like this:

Bob:               We also brought a balloon we want to inflate and then let it float into the sky.

Warden:        A what?

Bob:               A balloon.  We have a little bit of helium we are going to fill it up with and then it will float away.  It’ll be cool.

Warden:        Oh, I don’t think that will be . . .

Bob:                You’ll love it, it won’t be a problem (nodding).

Warden:         We cannot allow . . . (shaking his head).

Bob:                Awesome, it’s right outside with the sugar and soap.  We’ll bring it in now.  It will be great.  Thanks for letting us do this (nodding).

Warden:         (Stunned Silence).

Bob:                (Standing and reaching to shake his hand). Thanks, Warden.

Warden:         (Cracking a smile and starting to nod) It is OK.

Everyone Else in the Room:  Did that really just happen?

Shortly thereafter, we were escorted outside into the prison courtyard where a thousand or more inmates in yellow prison garb stood, sat, and milled around in a horseshoe pattern facing a table, behind which was a row of chairs for us.  While there were a handful of guards scattered around, the prisoners were not restrained and there were no barriers between us and them.  In fact, as we approached the chairs, an older gentleman hurried up to Bob and embraced him.  “That’s Kabi,” I whispered to a few of the others.  It would have been a rather sweet moment, were it not bathed in irony – a prisoner serving a life sentence warmly embracing the man who was both responsible for putting him prison and helping him secure eternal freedom.  Kabi wore a soft smile of validation and nodded along quietly as Bob spoke gently into his ear for about two minutes.  As their embrace concluded, Kabi spotted me and gave me a warm smile.  I came over and hugged him.  “Do you remember me?” I asked.  He replied in much-improved English, “I remember you from before in the warden’s office.  It is good to see you.”

All the while, gospel music blared through the loudspeakers facing the prisoners, who were, in turn, facing us.  After a few minutes, all eyes turned to a handful of inmates as they struggled through the security gate lugging two eight-foot-long cylindrical helium tanks.  They gingerly set the tanks down in the red-dirt courtyard between us and the inmates.  A steady stream of inmates who had been conscripted into pack-mule duty followed with a half-dozen body-bag sized sacks of sugar, a dozen huge cases of soap bars, and four boxes of one-liter water bottles.  The booty was placed in full view of the prisoners, just to our right.  The sugar and soap I understood because there was enough for everyone, but the 96 water bottles perplexed me.

A hush came over the crowd as the music faded and an inmate who introduced himself as the pastor of the Luzira Pentecostal Church took the mike and welcomed us as their guests.  Over the course of the next twenty minutes, a “prison choir” led us in a few songs, followed by a prayer.  Whenever someone spoke, another interpreted – either from Luganda to English or vice versa.  The pastor resumed his emcee duties and announced that one of their fellow inmates would be sharing his story of how accepting Jesus changed his life.

With his arm around Bob, Kabi approached the microphone.  He proceeded to tell the other inmates about the kind of person he was before he “born again” and the difference it has made in his life.  Bob stood with his friend throughout this powerfully emotional testimony.

Next came Margaret, who brought it Ugandan Pentecostal style.  She paced, she bounced, she stomped, she raised her hands, she pointed her finger, she yelled, and she whispered.  As Margaret was reaching her crescendo, Bob snuck over to the boxes of water, pulled out a handful of one-liter bottles, and noiselessly handed them out amongst our group.  That’s when it clicked.  I grinned broadly as I finally realized why Bob brought the water.

Margaret finished with a flourish, inviting any of the prisoners who had not been born again to accept Jesus right then and there – “Jesus wants to give you a second chance,” she bellowed.  “Raise your hand if you want to accept Jesus today.”  A few hands went up.  “Come forward so we can pray with you and help you receive Jesus.”  A group of a half-dozen or so emerged from the crowds and stood in the middle of the courtyard in front of Margaret.  Bob’s barely perceptible head nod prompted us into action.  We converged on the penitents, open bottles in hand.

I approached a young man in his early twenties.  His slightly trembling body and penetratingly pleading eyes conveyed the sincerity and urgency he felt.  He told me in somewhat broken English that his name was Ibrahim, revealing the fact that he was born Muslim.  He told me his other name (there are no last names in Uganda, just two names), but I couldn’t quite understand him – Margaret continued to preach and the others who had come forward were talking and praying with the others in our group.  He pulled out a scrap of paper and wrote his other name down. “I want you to remember me,” he said.  “I promise I will remember you and that I will be praying for you,” I insisted as I pocketed the piece of paper.

I cannot remember precisely all that I said and that he said, but we prayed together, I told him that Jesus loved him and that he and I were now brothers.  I also tried to explain that if he wanted me to, I was going to baptize him with the water for the forgiveness of his sins.  He said he understood and he wanted just that.  (My baptism experiences and theology strongly lean toward immersion, rather than pouring of water on the head, but there weren’t any bodies of waters handy, so we made due).  By this time, it had started to drizzle, and the rain mixed with our respective tears as we prayed together.  We both got a bit more wet as I poured a small portion of the water bottle over Ibrahim’s head.  He closed his eyes, turned his head toward the sky, and trembled some more.

As I had attempted to describe for him what I was going to do, I had used the term “holy water” in an effort to convey the symbolism of baptism.  I did not intend to use this term in a way that it is often used in Catholic churches, but Ibrahim must have understood it that way.  As I poured the water on his head, I again used this terminology.  After the second small pour, he opened his eyes and said, “I must drink the holy water.”  That’s a new one, I thought.  As he chugged the entire bottle, my mind immediately locked on the song referenced above – my heart warmed as I briefly reflected on the contrast between baptism through immersion of the outside of one’s body and Ibrahim’s experience of being baptized “. . . from the inside out.”

While Ibrahim and I were in our own little world, another handful of prisoners had come forward and about a dozen or so were locked in conversation and prayer with the rest of our group.  After some more hugging and rejoicing, we all resumed our original seats.

The final song was familiar to me and my breath caught when they started singing:

Let the spirit of the Lord come down,

Let the spirit of the Lord come down,

Let the spirit of the Lord from heaven come down,

Let the spirit of the Lord come down.

That was the very song the prisoners at the Masindi Remand Home sang to our group as we departed during our visit in January of 2010.  I will always remember the gratitude and hope in the juveniles’ eyes that day.  And here was that same song again being sung by another group of Ugandan prisoners clinging to hope.

Next, it was Bob’s turn at the microphone.  Bob shines lots of places, but nowhere as brightly as in front of a crowd.  As Bob began to talk about what it means to be forgiven, two of our number snuck in behind him and started to inflate a big while balloon, using the helium tanks that had been lugged in.  Bob explained that in a few minutes, the balloon would be released into the air and carry our sins up to the heavens.  Blank stares.  I could almost hear what was going through the minds of the thousand-plus crowd.  What could he possibly mean?  How are my sins going to be carried to the heavens?  What is a balloon?

On cue, Bob explained the whole thing.  He instructed his son Richard to slowly move through the crowd holding a Styrofoam ice chest with the word “FORGIVENESS” emblazoned on it.  As Richard moved through the crowd, they clambered to touch it, symbolically placing their requests for forgiveness into the box.  What they didn’t know is that a camera had been embedded into the size of the box and was filming them reaching for it.

As Richard completed the circle, the balloon reached its capacity.  The prisoners and all but one of the guards were mesmerized.  The head guard, however, was becoming increasingly agitated and appeared about to put a stop to it at any moment.  He clearly realized that there was about to be a space launch from the depths of Uganda’s only maximum security prison and he was not at all pleased.  He must have realized, however, that intervening and shutting the entire thing down would likely have caused unrest among the prisoners, if not a full-fledged riot, so he kept his powder dry.  For the moment.

As Richard tied the box to the balloon, Bob whipped the crowd into a frenzy and counted down the launch.  Five.  Four.  Three.  Two.  One.  Launch.

A roar erupted as the balloon lifted off.  For the next five minutes, all eyes were heavenward as the space craft gained altitude.  All eyes except for one pair.  The head guard.  He made a beeline for Bob.  Bob saw him coming and signaled for the rest of us to head for the exits.  I feel constrained to reserve for Bob the full telling of what happened next and what words were exchanged, but suffice it say that the guard figured out that there was a camera on the box and at least one or more (there were more) other hidden cameras capturing the day’s events.  Bob, of course, sweet talked his way out of this potential jam.  One of the hidden cameras captured this image of the balloon launch.

"Forgiveness" Launch from Luzira Prison

Lots of hugs, high fives, and tears in the parking lot as we reconvened.  It will probably take years to fully comprehend and process the day’s events.

Wrapping Up

My last full day on the ground in Uganda was again filled with meetings and introductions of David to the relevant participants in juvenile justice work placed before us.  Before the June departure of Shane Michael (David’s predecessor as a Pepperdine Nootbaar Fellow in Uganda), he and I drafted a funding proposal on behalf of the Uganda Christian Lawyer’s Fraternity (UCLF) for a large grant from an organization run by the Danish government.  This grant would provide UCLF with the resources to become the de facto lawyers for the imprisoned children of Uganda.  Since Uganda does not have a public defender’s office, which would otherwise provide free legal representation for those in conflict with the law, UCLF seeks to fill this gap.

On Monday, UCLF signed the grant papers and will immediately begin to staff up.  It was gratifying to be with the Director of UCLF on Tuesday (i) to celebrate the awarding of this grant, (ii) to introduce David to the UCLF team, and (iii) to strategize about next steps.  Naturally, UCLF is eager for the next J-FASTER session to get slated.

During the J-FASTER Pilot Program and the follow-on Masindi session, the prosecution (DPP) was a model of helpfulness and professionalism.  At every turn, the DPP embraced plea bargaining in the juvenile realm and remains positive about its eventual integration into the adult arena.  Yesterday was no exception.  David is now connected with the right people there and they welcome the beginning the next session of J-FASTER.

In that regard, our follow-up meetings with the court on Tuesday were quite encouraging.  It looks like a judge has been secured and the green light is on.  I have learned to manage my expectations here because green lights can turn yellow in a matter of moments, but we are cautiously optimistic that things will get going quite soon.  (Sorry for being vague here with respect to names and dates, but circumspection is required at this point).

Another opportunity has presented itself that could be quite important and interesting with respect to the Remand Homes.  Further discussions and investigation will take place in the coming weeks, but if this comes to fruition, the living conditions of the imprisoned kids of Uganda could see a material uptick.

I finally caught up with Bob Goff and his crew for dinner at the Fang Fang Restaurant.  Whenever Bob is in town, he shares a meal with his friends on the judiciary.  I was pleased to be able to assist him in setting this up, so we were joined by the top three judicial officers in the country – Chief Justice Odoki, Deputy Chief Justice (retired) Bahigeine, and Principal Judge Bamwine.  A great time was had by all.

Bob and David with Uganda's Top Three Judges

As usual, Bob was in high spirits and it was good to see him on this side of the world.  Bob was here in Uganda for the graduation ceremony for the school in Gulu called Restore Leadership Academy that was founded and run by Bob’s organization Restore International.  At graduation every year, Bob rocks the kids’ world with something new and different.  This year actually expanded their world.  I don’t want spoil the story I am sure will be told soon by Bob and those who were eyewitnesses, but suffice it to say that it involved a space launch, the cargo of which ended up in the quite puzzled hands of the Democratic Republic of Congo’s military.  When the details and footage become available, I will provide a link.

I have a few more meetings on Wednesday before boarding an 11:30 p.m. flight home, but will also be hanging out with Bob and some others at a place I visited with Bob last year at this time for what was A Day I Will Never Forget.

Reunions and Introductions

Sunday mornings in Kampala bustle with activity, though little of it takes place on the roads.  Uganda is a predominantly Christian nation – roughly 80 percent Christian, 10 percent Muslim, and a smattering of other religions – and the vast majority of Ugandans attend church.  Because there are so many church goers, churches are ubiquitous.  And because there are so many churches, there is bound to be one within walking distance.  Consequently, most Ugandans walk to church, which leaves the roads wide open – a welcome relief from the grinding gridlock (here simply referred to as “jam”) typically encountered in and around Kampala.

This allowed for a smooth and uneventful 45-minute drive to pick up Henry from his Catholic school.  I arrived a little before 9:00 as the students were finishing their morning Mass.  This allowed me to reunite with the Head Teacher at Henry’s school – a fairly young and very capable leader.  He signed Henry’s permission slip to leave campus and we chatted for a few minutes about my work in Uganda.

Henry’s final exams for the third and final term of the year begin next week.  Unlike at most other secondary schools in Uganda, Henry’s final exams make up his entire grade for the term.  There are no mid-terms, homework assignments, class participations points, or anything of that nature — just the four exams (Physics, Chemistry, Biology, and Math).  In each class, Henry will be assigned a grade between 0 and 5.  In order to advance from Senior Five to Senior Six, after which he intends to apply to medical school, Henry needs to score a cumulative total of 12 points this term.  He is working hard, and praying harder.  He would be grateful for any additional prayers offered on his behalf.  I had seriously considered bringing him to Jinja with me for the day, but thought better of it.  As a consequence of his upcoming exams, we needed to limit the time away from his studies.

Instead we went to breakfast in the mall area.  Café Javas is a favorite among the ex-patriot community and serves American-ish food.  Henry enjoyed his first-ever breakfast burrito and marveled at the flat tortilla, which resembles the chapattis his mother daily prepares and sells in huge quantities in order to make ends meet for Henry’s family. The day before, Henry had proudly shown me his brand-new passport and some photographs taken of him at a school party.  The passport will allow Henry to leave Uganda for the very first time in conjunction with a trip he and some other students are taking to South Africa in early December.  Not only will this trip be fun and educational, but it will begin the process of establishing a pattern of leaving the country and returning, which (I am told) is a critical component of a Visa application to enter the United States.  We are hoping for that opportunity a year or two down the road.  I really liked a few of the pictures of Henry from the school party, so we found a Kodak photo shop in the mall (things are definitely westernizing here) and made digital copies of the photos.  Like American senior pictures, this one makes Henry look older than he really is:

Henry at School

And here is a photo I took of him on our excursion:

Henry During our Field Trip away from School

While we waited for the photo shop to finish its work, we bought some supplies and food items for Henry to take back with him to school.  David Nary met us in the parking lot around noon, and we headed back to drop off Henry.  After hugs and goodbyes, David and I set off to Jinja to meet up with my friend Katie and her girls.

Many of those reading this will recall a few of my prior posts about Katie, but for the new readers, Katie is an amazing young woman (she turns 24 this week) who moved to Uganda just out of high school and has established a wonderful ministry called Amazima, through which Katie feeds, educates, and empowers hundreds and hundreds of the poorest of the poor.  Her book is called Kisses from Katie and has been a regular on the New York Times Bestseller List since its release over a year ago.  It has now been translated into four other languages.  During our time in Uganda, our family got to know (and love) Katie’s family, about which you can read more in her book, or on her blog.

Before I left home, Joline had the great idea of getting autographs from Katie and each of her girls on a copy of her book.  I suspect I am the only one who now has such a signed copy.  And no, it is not for sale.  It is for us.  We had a wonderful visit with Katie and her family, and went to pool with them for their Sunday afternoon swim.  Each visit with her inspires me more to look for ways to surrender my faith to God’s leading in my life.

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Monday was a whirlwind of reunions and introductions.  The main goal of my trip was to connect David with as many players as possible in the juvenile justice project on which I had worked when I was here.  We made a big dent in this mission on Monday.  We met with members of the Criminal Division of the High Court, the Chief Justice, the Principal Judge, and officials at the Ministry of Gender.  The meetings all went well, and we are cautiously optimistic that the baton is successfully being passed to David in the eyes of the Uganda officials, such that the next iterations of J-FASTER can begin in short order.

Along the way, I made a side trip to the Court of Appeals to catch with Alex, a Court Registrar I first met when he visited the United States with a delegation from the Ugandan judiciary in May of 2010.  Alex has been instrumental in so many ways and a blessing to so many families in ways that I will never be able to fully discuss.  Until very recently, Alex worked for the Court of Appeals (he is now in the Land Division).  From his perch there, Alex was able to keep me updated as to the status of the scheduling of my oral argument in Henry’s case.  Due to petitions following the February 2011 elections, which are constitutionally mandated to take precedence over all other court work, the appellate hearing has been delayed on numerous occasions.  The original oral argument date of March of 2011 has been pushed back more times I can count.  Last month, I had been given a glimmer of hope that the argument would likely happen in November of this year, though I was careful to manage my expectations.  I learned Monday that I was right to do so – early next year is what I am now being told.  Thanks to Alex, I now have a friend in the new point person for the scheduling process.

The long day ended with a delightful dinner with Alex, his wife, and the just-retired Deputy Chief Justice (DCJ) of Uganda at a lodge perched high on one of Kampala’s seven hills.  I renewed my love affair with Ugandan meat, and renewed my deep friendship and admiration for her Lordship (as they say here).  The DCJ is such a wise and lovely lady and I am blessed to know her.

Tuesday will be another long day of reunions and introductions, culminating a dinner with Bob Goff, judges, and friends.

Beginning and Ending in Prayer

Saturday started off really early, though not intentionally.  I have previously written about my troubles sleeping in Uganda, and they re-emerged on this trip.  It is hard to discern whether the challenges stem from the natural difficulties adjusting to the ten-hour time difference, the excitement and busyness of my schedule while I am in country, or from the loud-speaker encouragement from the local Mosque to spend some time praying – right then and there.  Sounded like a good idea to me.  Does it count if I was praying that the power source for the loudspeaker would miraculously fail?  By 4:30, I was up and up for good.

When I rolled out of bed and flipped on my computer, I realized that the power in the house in which I was staying was, indeed, out.  I stumbled to the window and look down into the valley, enveloped in darkness, speckled only an occasional fire light.  I guess my power failure prayers had been answered.  And yet the blessed loudspeaker blared on.  Unfortunately, the Mosque’s generator squelched my sought-after miracle.  The public national holiday on Friday corresponded with a Muslim holiday that apparently necessitated some serious chanting while I was trying to sleep in order to be carried to fruition.

After doing some writing and answering some e-mails, I hopped into the driver’s seat of my newly acquired Toyota RAV4 and drove to the Garden City Mall to pick up David for our first meeting of the day.  This meeting was with Mark Riley, who relocated with his family to Uganda from Wales about two years ago to work as a UNICEF consultant on orphan and child protection issues.  Mark is embedded with the Ministry of Gender, which oversees the Remand Homes.  Mark’s focus is on developing and implementing an alternative care framework for how to deal with Uganda’s substantial orphan population.  We became close during my prior stay in Uganda after our paths crossed in conjunction with both my work on the J-FASTER program (he shares an office with someone at the Ministry responsible for implementing various aspects of J-FASTER) and with some advice and assistance I was providing on an ad hoc basis to American families seeking to adopt Ugandan orphans. Mark has proven to be a good friend and an invaluable source of information and insight into Uganda’s orphan challenges and what the best solutions might be.  In fact, my weekly interactions with Mark (and others) inspired me to lobby for Pepperdine Law to host an international conference on Inter-Country Adoption, which will take place in early February of next year.  More information on that conference is available here.  It appears likely that Mark will be attending and speaking at this conference where those on all sides of this important issue will exchange ideas and propose solutions to the world-wide orphan problems, with special attention on how Christians and other people of faith should or should not respond to this global challenge.

We next met with Isaac Obiro, who is one of Uganda’s most influential adoption lawyers, and who represented many of my old and new American friends who were granted legal guardianship over Ugandan children.  I have previously posted about cases where Isaac provided legal services to the Ribbens family and Brown family here and here, respectively.  A touching story about the Ugandan orphan boy adopted by the Brown family was recently published in Pepperdine’s Law Magazine here.  Isaac updated me on how things have been going over the past couple of months in this realm, and we chatted about the upcoming conference.  Isaac embraced the opportunity to speak at this February conference in Malibu, and he looks forward to reuniting with many of his clients from around the United States who will be attending the conference.

From lunch with Isaac, David and I went to see Henry at his boarding school where is in his penultimate year of secondary school and is studying to be a doctor.  Henry will be familiar to those who have kept up with the Gash Family’s Ugandan adventure, but for those who haven’t, Henry is a big part of how and why we ended up moving to Uganda for six months earlier this year.  I first met Henry in the Masindi Remand Home in January of 2010, and we have been close ever since.  More on who Henry is here and here.  We spent an hour or so together at his school, and I am picking him up Sunday morning for a four-hour excursion away from school.

We ended the day with a great dinner with a wonderful group of Americans who were visiting Uganda on a mission trip.  David and I especially connected with a group of six from a church in Huntsville, Alabama, with whom we laughed, cried, and prayed about what God was doing in Uganda and in our respective lives.  We are grateful to our friends from Sixty Feet for introducing us to these faithful seekers of God’s will for their lives.

I am also grateful to you for wading through this quick and often-meandering update.  Sunday should be lots of fun – four hours with Henry, and then a quick trip to meet up with some very special friends in Jinja.