Blood Lab Round 2

Jared practices with the tourniquet

I’m so excited and scared for Tuesday. Tuesday is the day that I leave with the Gregston family to go on a 5 day medical mission trip. That’s the exciting part. The scary part is that there will be no lab technician. We’re not quite sure what our lab capabilities will be yet, but whatever they are, in America, they generally aren’t run by two 16 year olds and a 12 year old. Thankfully, because of our “practice” (stabbing various Ugandans) in the lab, I would trust Jake with my life when it comes to malaria and there is no one I would rather have draw my blood than Jared the 6th grader, so we’re in pretty good shape. The downside is that not one of us has even set foot in med school, so we really have to rely completely on each other. And people thought “trust falls” were a good team building experience..

I feel so blessed that the Gregstons are letting me come with them on their trip and so grateful that they are here. I’m reminded hourly (they live about 2 meters below us) how amazing it is to have them here. I can’t imagine our trip without them. This is one of the few times in my life that it has fully and completely hit me that God really knows what we need before we even ask.

Admitted

Today was probably the most suspenseful and intense day yet.  I will need to wait until next week to publicly discuss most of what happened today, but suffice it to say that there were more tears of joy, and more evidence of God’s presence moving here in Uganda.

And this was also the same day that we got more really good news about Henry’s schooling.

On Wednesday morning, Henry awoke early with his adoptive family (the Gashes) and joined us and the Gregstons for our morning workout.  I really wish I had his first time on the treadmill on video.  It was top-notch comedy, for him as much as anyone.

Henry on the treadmill

Gashes, Gregston, and Henry on Ab-Ripper X day on our P90X program

After showering, Henry and I were planning to go back out to his dream school in an attempt to meet with the Head Teacher.

Because I had missed the Head Teacher the day before, I decided to call in advance to see if he would be in.  Fortunately, one of the assistants had given me the Head Teacher’s cell phone number the day before, so I called him directly.  I was relieved that he remembered me and my interest in helping Henry get admitted.  At the end of a ten-minute conversation, he told me to “rest assured that he will be admitted,” and said that there was no need for us to come in.  I was quite pleased, but Henry was ecstatic.  I tried to give him a high five; he went in for the hug.

Since we got this taken care of so early, my driver raced him to the boat dock so that he could join Joline, our kids, and the whole Gregston family for a day at a village medical clinic across Lake Victoria.  Since Henry wants to be a doctor, we thought this would be a perfect introduction.  It was.  You can read more about their day of providing medical care to the poorest of the poor, including Jessica drawing blood from HIV-positive patients in Jessica’s post, Joline’s post, or the Gregston’s post about this adventure.  Needless to say, Henry was incredibly grateful for the opportunity to shadow Dr. Jay Gregston the entire day, serving as his interpreter when necessary.  His resolve to become a doctor intensified.

On Thursday, Henry headed home to Hoima (back in about ten days for the start of school) and Joline and the kids headed out again with the Gregstons for another day of delivering medical care in the village.

Today, I received an e-mail from someone at the Henry’s dream school officially confirming that he had been admitted.  Praise God.  The final list of the admitted students will be posted early next week, but today’s written confirmation was very good news.

You might be in Uganda if . . .

You might be in Uganda if . . . you went to your doctor’s appointment and were registered at the reception desk by an 11-year-old.  You might be in Uganda if . . . you went to the blood lab and found that the technician drawing your blood is 16-years-old, or even 12-years-old.  You might be in Uganda if . . . you went to the pharmacy and saw that an 11-year-old and 13-year-old were filling the prescriptions.  Welcome to Uganda!

It might seem crazy in the United States, but here in Uganda it seems perfectly reasonable to allow children to do the job of medical professionals.  I am not kidding!  I think it is wonderful that my children and I have been given the opportunity to help the underserved receive medical treatment.  We spent two days this week helping an organization called Africa Renewal in a village across Lake Victoria.  We were very thankful that the Gregston family (our twins from Oklahoma) invited us to join them in their work.

While Jay used his training as a medical doctor to examine patients, the rest of us learned new skills as medical receptionists, phlebotomists (blood-drawing technicians), pharmacists, and social workers.  I think the photos will tell the story that you wouldn’t believe otherwise.  The Gash children shown are Jessica (16), Joshua (13), and Jennifer (11).  The Gregston children shown are Jake (16), Jared (12), and Jayne (11).

Joshua (13) and Jennifer (11) registering patients and dispensing de-worming pills.

 

Jessica (16) drawing blood to test for HIV and malaria.

 

Jake (16) drawing blood.

 

Jared (12) drawing blood.

 

Our Ugandan friend Henry (18) assisting & translating for Dr. Gregston.

 

Joshua (13) and Jayne (11) filling prescriptions in pharmacy.

 

Joshua, Jayne, & Jennifer playing with village children.

 

Patients already waiting when we arrived to clinic on Wednesday morning.

 

Our team saw more than 200 patients on Wednesday.

 

Our team of Ugandan doctors, nurses, technicians & social workers with the Gash and Gregston families.

Do the Gash and Gregston families have future doctors in the making?  See Jessica’s post if you want to read her perspective on the beginning of her medical career.

Underage and Underqualified

I’ve never had much sympathy for Moses. I mean, he heard the voice of God commanding him, how did he even have it in him to ask for someone else to be provided in his place? But I realized recently I’m guilty of doing exactly the same thing–I just don’t say it to the burning bush. How many times have we seen someone in visible distress and looked around for someone else, desperately hoping they’ll take over? How many times have we used the excuse “it’s not my place”? Sometimes that excuse is legitimate, but I think it’s a lot less often than we have the courage to
admit.

I haven’t posted yet because I’ve had a really difficult time putting into words my experience in Africa. It’s hard to
explain the feeling of knowing you are simultaneously wonderfully valued by the people you are helping and at the same time incredibly unimportant to the larger cause. I know me coming to Africa has never been and will never be huge and important. And I’ve never needed it to be. Anyone could do the job that I’m doing. I’m so often bewildered that God has given my family the opportunity to fill in the gaps for those organizations and individuals who are actually qualified and lack only the people to assign jobs.

But it can be so hard. I know now what Moses was feeling (not that I’m anywhere close to Moses status) when he just wanted someone, anyone else to do what God told him to do. It hurt my heart to leave my loving Christian friends at my new school. Some days I would just fall on my knees and tell God I was so sorry that I was so unwilling to leave and beg it to not hurt so much. A couple days ago I had to face my worst irrational fear in the worst way. Anyone who knows me well knows that just talking about needles makes my knees feel weak and my head feel woozy. I don’t know what possessed me to say “okay” when Dr. Andrew told me he was going to teach me to draw blood (to test for HIV, malaria, and other common diseases) in the clinic lab. I think it’s the same thing that possessed me when I said “okay” to go to Uganda. Drawing blood really isn’t that difficult, it turns out. I just had to get over my mental stumbling block. I don’t mean to be preachy but I think that’s our problem a lot of the time. When God opens a door, I think we just have to jump through it and not worry our pretty little heads about it. He’ll take our fears away when the time is
right.

Me drawing blood

A Day of Firsts

Last night, Henry and I decided that he would make the trip from Hoima to Kampala this morning so we could attempt to make further progress on getting him admitted to his dream school.  While this was Henry’s second visit to Kampala (he came on a school field trip about six years ago), the day was filled with firsts for him.

After I met with some of the probation officers at the Naguru Remand Home (children’s prison) and the head of the children’s division of the DPP (prosecutor’s office) in the morning, I spent most of the rest of the day with Henry.

After arriving at the bus park from Hoima, Henry met me at Garden City – the first constructed of Uganda’s two malls.  I walked him through the Uchumi pretty quickly for his first look at a real grocery store.  From there we headed back to my office at the Commercial Court where he had his first elevator ride.  He had no idea what the metal box was or did when we stepped in and I pushed the button marked “3.”

“Ah! We are moving!  Where are we going?”

When we got out and looked out the window, he laughed heartily at the magic box that transported us upward.  After picking up a few things from my office, we headed back to my apartment where I showed him (and he took) his first shower in a stand-alone shower.  I also showed him the first oven, stove, and microwave he had ever seen (we heated some water, and he was quite impressed).  There are some complications that have arisen with Sara Ribbens and the securing of the visa for Nya from the US Embassy, so I spent an hour or so rewriting portions of the final order we hope the court will sign – more on that in the next few days.

While at the apartment, he got to see for the first time how a photocopier/printer worked as we scanned his birth and baptismal certificates.  We then headed to the school we hope to get him into.  This was my fourth visit there in less than a week, so they are getting to know me there.  When I walked in, Judith and Ruth both said, “You must be Hillary, you are most welcome!”  Unfortunately, the Head Teacher wasn’t in, but we were able to finalize his application and we were told to call the Head Teacher in the morning.  We are praying hard that tomorrow may be the day he is admitted.

He seemed to enjoy the mall so much that we went to the other mall in Uganda (right next to the first one) and explored the place.  Before entering, we stopped at an ATM and he saw his first cash withdrawal.  I felt horrible (kind of) for laughing so hard I almost fell down during his first encounter with an escalator.  We first went down.  Predictably, he stepped on a seam and lost his balance just as soon as they separated.  He laughed also.  When we headed back up, however, he found another seam and lost his balance and stumbled down the upward moving stairs for a good seven seconds before leaping off, turning around, and jumping back on (with a big grin) the horse that bucked him.

As we walked through the Nakkumatt – a very large (at least for Uganda) Targetesque store, Henry saw his first freezer, first coffee maker, first washer, first dryer, first frozen kilogram of hamburger, first cereal box, and first mustard container, among others.

After further exploring the mall, we met up with John Niemeyer, who is the Country Director of Restore International – Bob Goff’s organization that runs the school in Gulu from which Henry just graduated.  John came to Kampala today for a few days in order to take care of some business for Restore and to see if he could help Henry get admitted.

 

Me, Henry, and John after Henry's first pizza dinner

John joined us for dinner at our apartment where Henry had his first pizza.  “Very good.”  Tonight, he is spending the night with us as our first overnight visitor.  Which one of you will be coming to visit next?

My wife and kids also had a great day – Jessica learned how to draw blood, and the started doing it like an old pro, testing for HIV and Malaria.  And yes, she was wearing gloves.

I suspect that this will not be the last of many firsts over the coming months.

G-nuts

I have never been accused of being a good cook.  I am a pretty decent baker, but not a cook.  I would say I am more of a re-heater.  In America, I can get by with heating pasta and sauce on the stove, heating bread in the oven, and opening up a pre-packaged salad.  But in Uganda, I cannot rely on Costco, I shop at Nakumatt, where you can find most of the raw ingredients to make such a meal.  So, I have been forced to cook.  I am sorry to say that my reputation as a cook has only gotten worse.

One of the first meals I tried to cook was beans andrice.  It sounded easy enough.  And I had learned by reading “Kisses from Katie” that you need to start cooking the beans well in advance of when you want to eat them because they take a long time to cook.  I had also learned from my parents that you need to soak the beans overnight.  Check and check.  I even added some chopped carrots and tomatoes.  This was going to upgrade my status from re-heater to cook!

After several hours of cooking the beans, they were still not soft enough to eat.  I kept adding water, as the steam bubbled up from the pot.  After another hour or two, everyone was hungry and the rice was ready, so we decided that the beans were cooked enough.  We all did our best to smile and eat the crunchy beans.  But they were not good.

Determined to make these beans work, we froze the leftovers.  There were a lot of leftovers!  The next week, we put the clump of frozen beans back into the pot and added spices, onions, garlic, and more tomatoes.  Surely the beans just needed more time to cook and maybe some more flavor added.  I was going to show these beans who was boss.  But, after cooking them again for hours, they were still not very soft.

That’s when it began to dawn on us.  Maybe these were not beans.  They looked like beans, but they more closely resembled the G-nuts we had been snacking on all week.  You can find G-nuts everywhere in Uganda, even on the street, where vendors sell them to you when your car is stopped for 1000 shillings a bag (about 50 cents).  We enjoyed the roasted G-nuts from the street vendor so much, that we bought a big bag of the nuts at Nakumatt, only to find out when we tried eating them at home that we had purchased raw G-nuts, which are not very tasty.  In fact, they tasted an awful lot like the beans we had been cooking for two days.

Was it possible?  Had we been trying to cook G-nuts instead of beans?  Take a look at the photo below and you decide.

G-nuts: Raw, Roasted, & Boiled

So, I clearly have a lot to learn about cooking in Uganda.

Lesson number one:  If you want to cook beans for dinner, make sure to buy beans, not G-nuts!

Wholly Cow$

Today was a day I have been anticipating for nearly two months, and it went even better than I could have hoped.

Henry met us at our hotel at 7:15 a.m. and rode with us to his church, which actually started with a time of worship at 7:00 a.m.  When we walked in, the place was hopping.  Literally.  The song leader was hopping up and down as he sang about raising Jesus higher.  There was also a mother with a baby in her arms jumping around between the front row and concrete stage.  The song leader had a microphone that kept cutting in and out and two female background singers dancing behind him.  To the side was a keyboard player who was doing a good job adjusting to the leader’s irregular improvisations.  We were ushered to the front row, presumably so the congregants could watch us struggle to keep up and keep the rhythm.  I went 0 for 2.

After the praise time, the pastor asked if anyone had something for which they were thankful that they wanted to share.  Henry was third person to take the microphone.  He was kind in his words of gratitude to us and in his welcome for his “visitors.”  When he handed the microphone back, the pastor feigned confusion about the “visitors” and pretended to search the audience for the elusive guests.  Everyone had a good laugh about that.  And yes, we were the only mzungus at church on Sunday. (In fact, I didn’t see a single mzungu in Hoima the entire weekend, but Joline and the others saw and talked to an American missionary girl they met at the hotel while I was with Tango and Henry searching for Elsie, Bessie, and Bevo).

Henry’s mom got up next and also thanked God for her guests, with special emphasis on the possessory element.  A few minutes later, it was go-time.  The pastor moved the podium to the center of the stage and invited Joline, Henry, and I to come forward.  Even though this was the “English language service,” the pastor wisely called upon Henry to interpret our mzungu English for the congregants.  In fact, I started out with a quick attempt at humor regarding having an interpreter for the mzungu at the English language service.  Half of the laughter came when I delivered the punch line, and the other half came when Henry interpreted it.

Jim and Joline Sharing, with Henry Interpreting

After I introduced myself and Joline and brought greetings to them from Pepperdine and the University Church of Christ, Joline introduced our family, and called Jay Gregston up to bring greetings from his church in Oklahoma, to introduce his family, and to briefly describe the medical missionary work he and his family are doing in Uganda.  Joline then brought greetings on behalf of the Community Bible Study in Malibu and told them that this group of women prayed often for Henry, Joseph, and their father while they were in prison.

Over the next twenty minutes or so, Joline and I alternated as we shared some scriptures and words of encouragement.  It was a good thing Henry was interpreting because the periodic pauses allowed me to (barely) keep my composure.  I choked up a couple times, but avoided any on-stage sobbing.  I couldn’t help but think back to one of the first reports Henry gave me after he had been released – he had taken the same stage and poured his heart out with gratitude to God for sustaining him during his two-year imprisonment.  Toward the end of the service, the pastor encouraged the congregants to say a blessing over us.  It was quite special to have a handful of total strangers fervently praying (in Runyoro) while gently touching our heads, faces, and hands.  We won’t soon forget this.

After church ended, a make-shift receiving line formed as many members of the congregation filed past us greeting and welcoming us.  As we walked out, we had a chance to approach some little kids and interact with them.  Only a couple of them ran away screaming at the sight of our white faces.

From church, we dropped off the Gregstons, Joline, and the kids at the hotel.  Tango (the driver who is originally from Hoima District), Henry, and I then set out in search of some Grade A Ugandan beef.

Wisely, Tango had targeted the butcher of his home village (which was nearby) the day before and let him know we were looking to buy cows.  Naturally, the butcher had a pretty good sense of the expendable cows within a 10 kilometer radius.  The day before, this butcher had put us in touch with a local farmer and we had agreed to pay 750,000 shillings for a medium-sized cow (about $350 at the current exchange rate).  Since it didn’t make sense to buy and transport one cow yesterday, we agreed to come back today and complete the deal.  In exchange, the farmer agreed to ask around for others interested in selling cows to a mzungu with a wad of cash.  My cover had been blown on Saturday, so I no longer pretended to be invisible.

When we arrived in the village at around 10:00 a.m., we had several interested sellers waiting for us.  Since Tango had transported us and Gregstons from Kampala in a van, and since we had dropped everyone but me and Henry at the hotel, we had plenty of room in the van for the numerous villagers who kept jumping in to direct us to their farms, or those of friends.  Several just came along for the adventure of it all.  The first farm had only one fairly young cow, but it looked healthy so we entered negotiations.  I use “we” somewhat loosely.  I simply bounced my gaze back and forth between Tango and Henry on the one hand, and the would-be seller on the other as they verbally jousted in Runyoro.  After a few minutes, my curiosity got the better of me and I asked where things were.  We were at 600,000 and he was at 700,000.  Since Tango had told us that there were going to be three other cows for us to look at where the one we had agreed to buy on Saturday was, and since my expectation was that we would buy three or four today, I stepped in and forthrightly declared that either we bought the cow for 600,000, or we left to look at others.  We were on a strict timeline and I made that clear.  Unsurprisingly, we got the cow for 600,000.

When I tried to count out the money into the seller’s hand — one 50,000 note at a time — he waived me off.  Tango grinned and explained that they have their traditions (meaning superstitions), so Tango counted the money in his own hand, and then gave it to seller, who did the same.  Lesson learned.  Once word got out that the mzungu was definitely paying cash (and likely overpaying), those in our growing entourage started dialing and their phones started ringing.

Next we headed way off the beaten path (which is saying something because the path we had been on was only lightly trodden to begin with) and tracked down a guy way out in the bush who had two female cows and one young bull.  He also wanted 700,000 for each.  Since they were young and relatively small, I told him I would give him 1.1 million for the bigger of the two cows and the bull.  Deal.  The problem, however, was that he was a good five kilometers (three miles) from the village center and we were on a timeline.  For 20,000, he agreed to run the cows to the village, cash on delivery, including the 1.1 million.  I wasn’t about to hand this guy that kind of money on the promise that he would bring them.

(Parental guidance suggested for this next paragraph.)  We knew we needed a big bull who was fond of cows so we could grow the herd.  Accordingly, we headed back to town and across the main road to look at such a bull.  He must have sensed our interest in his virility because as we approached him, he approached a nearby cow and unsheathed his manhood.  It would be unforgivably unfair to him to describe what he had as a baseball bat.  It was more like a jousting pole.  He reared up on his hind legs and buried his lance.  “I’ll take him!” I exclaimed.  Needless to say, this probably undercut my bargaining position, but I didn’t care.  I got him for 900,000 and he was worth every inch, I mean shilling.  At the risk of being accused of, well, compensating, I named him “Big Jim.”

We now had four locked up and we were on a roll.  We finally headed back to original place we started the day before.  When we arrived, there were four cows waiting for us, including the one we had verbally bargained for the day before.  After some dickering, we had the lot.  In fact, one of the sellers asked us to wait while he fetched another cow.  This confirmed what I thought – we were likely overpaying for cows, but both Tango and Henry thought we were getting good prices so I didn’t feel too ripped off.  It was also clear that the sellers had virtually nothing other than their cows so if they got a few extra shillings in their pockets for their families, then it wasn’t the end of the world.

It turned out to be more of a challenge than we had hoped to secure a truck to haul the cattle from the village to Henry’s house.  Additionally, we were informed that we needed to get the village chairman’s permission to take the cows from the village.  Really?  Yep, but it was as much for our protection as anything because he gave us a stamped letter that traveled with us so that if we were stopped by the police and questioned about why we had a truck full of cattle, we could show them the “official” letter.  This set me back 45,000 shillings.  While we were getting the certificate, the other cow one of the earlier sellers set off to fetch showed up and we bought her also.  This gave us nine cows (two of which were purportedly pregnant) for a grand total of just over 7 million shillings (including transportation, loading, and other commissions and fees).

When the truck arrived to transport the cows, I learned how to load cattle in Uganda.  As pictured below, the truck has a skeletal cage of sorts over the top that allows the cattle to be tied in place during the transport over the rather uneven roads.  But that assumes the cattle are in the truck.  How tough can that be?  Just walk them up the ramp.  What?  No ramp?  You are going to lift them into the back of the truck?  With your hands?  Seriously?

Four dudes.  Two in the truck, two on the ground pinning the cow against the back of the truck.  One in the truck gets a death grip on the tail, while the other in the truck pulls with all of his might on the rope tied around the huge horns.  Meanwhile, the two dudes on the ground with the huge quadriceps deadlift the cow until it skids onto the bed of the truck on its side.  As you might expect, the cow doth protest much.  None as much as Big Jim, but when they finally got him into the truck, he soon discovered his awaiting harem and sought to, well, introduce himself more formally right then and there.  After a bit of wrestling (and lots of rope), Big Jim was tied down in a prone position such that the introductions ceased.

After the forty-five minute loading process, we left the village on our way back to Hoima.  We stopped and picked up the Gregstons and the rest of the Gashes, then continued to Henry’s house.  We made sure the cattle truck stopped around the corner until we could set up the surprise.  We gathered the entire family and I told them that we were aware that they had lost their herd of cattle and their chickens when Henry, Joseph, and their father were unjustly imprisoned.  I explained that one of my former students named Holly had organized other former Pepperdine students and had taken up a collection, along with my parents and sister, and that Henry and I went shopping that afternoon for them.

Setting Up The Surprise

They all looked at Henry and then back at me.  It seemed as if they sort of understood, but were not quite sure what to say or what to expect.  Cue the truck.

As the truck rumbled down the dirt road toward their house, all eyes (including about a dozen neighbors who had gathered) turned toward the truck.

Here Comes The Truck

As it approached, Henry’s mom saw the huge Ancholi horns over the truck’s cab and let out an “alarm,” which is a high-pitched warbling “Wa-la-la-la-la-la!”  She has high blood pressure and Henry was actually a little worried about her fainting when the truck arrived.  She didn’t faint, but her emotions were on full display.  Same for everyone else.  Including the grim weeper, me.

Henry’s whole family was overjoyed and we all watched as the unloading of the cows made the initial loading look high-tech.  One of the back legs was roped and then yanked and dragged until the cow literally plopped onto the ground from a height of about three feet.

High-Tech Unloading

Most quickly popped back up, pissed off and looking for someone to blame.  Big Jim fell harder than the rest and seemed to have the wind knocked out of him, but eventually recovered.

Big Jim on Impact

They tied him to a tree away from the others so he wouldn’t resume his enthusiastic “courting.”

Big Jim and Little Jim

After the cattle were unloaded, I brought Henry and his family into his house, closed the curtains and explained that there was still two million shillings (about $900) left over after we had purchased the cows.  I encouraged them to buy 100 chickens and all the chicken and cattle feed they needed.  I also asked them to use 300,000 shillings to pay the annual school fees of Herbert (the youngest in the family), who hadn’t yet enrolled in S1 because they couldn’t pay the necessary costs for him to start at the beginning of the term two weeks ago.  They were all elated, especially Herbert.  Henry’s mother insisted on leading a prayer then and there.  The only word I recognized in the prayer was “Jim,” but her gratitude toward God came through loud and clear.

Before I left, I reminded Henry that the big bull was to be named Big Jim and the biggest cow was to be named Rosella (after my mother).  Two other cows were to be named Holly (after Holly Phillips, who organized this shopping spree) and Julie (after my sister who paid for a full cow).  I also told Henry that the young bull that was still too small and immature to mate should be named Jeremy (after Jeremy Shatzer, who contributed to the fund and wanted to help name one of the cows – thanks for the help, Jeremy!).

We hugged it out and they sent us away with generous portions of papayas, avocados, bananas, jack fruit, and popcorn.

I am so grateful to all who contributed to this unforgettable day.  Your generosity has tremendously blessed a wonderful and God-fearing family with a Job-like restoration of all they had lost.  While it is impossible to truly make someone “whole” after what they have been through, this is as close as it gets.

We took lots of video and hope to edit it together in the coming week or so.

I had posted the names of the donors previously, but here they are again:

Mary Ellyson Buxton, Dan Coats, Wendy McGuire Coats, Julie Wainrib Connelly, RJ Cornell, Julie Dilworth Cornell, Max Czernin, Rachel Dickey Czernin, Aaron Echols, Courtney Echols, Kevin Ferguson, John and Rosella Gash, Meghan George, Chris Gaspard, Kristin Heinrich, Randy Herndon, Christie Herndon, Brent Kampe, Miles Jennings, Wes Krider, Rebecca Lee, Brian Link, Nic McGrue, Meghan Milloy, Narguess Noohi, Lexie Norge, Lisa Ottomanelli, Holly Phillips, Amy Poyer, Jeremy Shatzer, Joel Sherwin, Brian Simas, Emily Smith, Scott and Julie (Gash) Spicer, Ricky Steelman, Erin Tallent, Brett Taylor, Melissa Thornsberry, Chelsea Trotter, Matt Williams, Jeff Wyss, and Kevin “Cookies” Assemi (recent addition).

Arrested Developments in Hoima

We left Kampala on Saturday morning at 8:00 a.m. planning to make the four-hour journey to Hoima where we would meet up with Henry.  The rest of my family has never met Henry or his family, though they have spoken to each other via Skype.  We realized early on in the day that things were not going to according to plan on this trip.

One of primary goals of this trip is to purchase for Henry’s family the cows and chickens they lost and/or had to sell when Henry, Joseph, and their father were wrongly imprisoned for nearly two years.  This idea came from one of my former students, Holly Phillips, who recruited nearly forty other Pepperdine Law alums to join her in a surprise Christmas present for Henry’s family.  The original goal was to get enough money to buy one cow.  The response was so overwhelming that many cows can be purchased (my parents and sister also kicked in to the tune of about a cow each).  I previously told the whole story here.

Since Uganda is still almost exclusively a cash-driven society, cows cannot be purchased with a Visa card.  Accordingly, I called my bank in the United States on Friday night and got them to raise the limit on my ATM withdrawals in order to pull from the Barclay’s Bank cash machine half of the amount previously donated as we were leaving town (I had pulled out the other half previously).  I really should have known better and not waited until the last minute.  In Africa, nothing happens how it should.

When I pulled the first two million shillings out (we were pulling out 4.5 million), the machine hummed and whirred, and then spit out forty 50,000 shilling notes.  So far so good.  When Joline tried to get the next two million out, the machine hummed and whirred, then squeaked and moaned.  Uh-oh.  After a short delay, the machine screen instructed us to take the money and the receipt.  Two problems.  No money.  No receipt.  So I guarded the machine (telling would-be customers that the machine was out of order – my first (but not last) deceptive act of the day), while Joline went into the bank to tell them what happened and to make sure that we didn’t lose the $850 or so in shillings that should have come out.  Next problem.  The bank didn’t open until 9:00.  So much for getting to Hoima by noon.  So we sent our driver and the Gregstons (who were accompanying us on this weekend trip) to the foreign exchange location to turn ten $100 bills I had brought with me into shillings.

After nearly 45 minutes with a customer service rep in the bank, we finally got on the road at 9:45 a.m.  At this point, we have no idea whether we will get the money back that didn’t come out of the machine but was taken from our account, but we have filed the proper paperwork.  The trip was pretty bumpy, but otherwise uneventful.  As we were checking into our hotel, Henry arrived and I had the opportunity to introduce him to my family and to the Gregstons.  Lots of hugs.

After a few minutes of introductions, I told Henry about the collection that had been taken and about our desire to buy his family some cows and chickens.  He was stunned and thrilled.  More hugs.

Henry had told me the night before that he had a surprise for me at his house when we arrived, so we drove the ten minutes from our hotel to his house.  (On the way, we stopped at the Hoima Barclay’s, which let us take out the rest of the cash we needed).  I had met his parents before at his graduation from S4, but I hadn’t met three of his four siblings and our families had not met each other.  The surprise was that they had prepared a full Ugandan meal for us and the Gregstons – two kinds of beef, potatoes, rice, soup, bananas, papaya, carrots, and tomatoes.  They also had plenty of soft drinks and bottled water.  It was delicious and we felt so grateful because this food cost them much more than they could reasonably afford.  Henry gave me a tour of his house, which is no more than 700 square feet – three bedrooms (only one of which didn’t have a dirt floor), a dining room, and a sitting room.  There were no doors or ceilings on any room, just hanging sheets for doors and rafters under the metal roof.  They have two pigs (the three piglets that were there had already been sold to someone else).  They have a fair bit of land on which they grow bananas, sweet potatoes, cassava, corn, and avocadoes.

Eating with Henry's Family at their House

Group Photo in Front of Henry's House

After this meal and tour, we set out to try to get some cows.  Since the prices always skyrocket when mzungus are buying goods and services in Uganda, we dropped off everyone but me, Henry, and Tango (the driver, who is also from Hoima) at an outdoor market near (sort of) our hotel.  When we arrived at a farm where Tango had arranged for us to look at cows, I waited in the car.  Within a few minutes, the car was swarming with little Ugandan children looking at the museum oddity inside the car – not many mzungus make it up country.  My cover was blown.  In the end, we were told we needed to come back on Sunday when they would have more cows for us to see.  We could have purchased one today, but the cost of transporting just one cow didn’t make sense when we could get more the next day.

While it was disappointing not to be able to spring the surprise on Henry’s family on Saturday, there were still a few more surprises for today we needed to deal with.  The first came when Henry told me that when he had told his pastor that we would be worshiping with them on Sunday, his pastor insisted that Joline and I preach in the morning.  Surprise!

The second came a bit later.  On the way back to pick up Henry’s family to bring them to our hotel to join us for dinner, I had the bright idea of taking pictures and filming Henry narrating from the significant locations that had led to our unlikely meeting two years ago.  (I had previously filmed him giving me a tour of his house and yard, including where the herdsman had been killed and buried in his yard).  So we stopped at the school where he had been when the voice “alarm” had sounded in June of 2008 that indicated that something big was going on.  I took some pictures and videoed him explaining what had happened.  We then went to the place he had been arrested, and I videoed him narrating that.  After we picked up his family for dinner, I had the bright idea to stop and film him in front of the police station telling the story about being taken and held there.  Big mistake.  Huge mistake.

About fifteen seconds into the filming on my Flip video camera, a police officer approached us in a rather hostile manner and asked us who were, what we were doing, and under whose authority.  I stopped filming, offered a big smile and my hand, and tried to introduce myself.  The only introduction the officer was willing to make, however, was us to the inside of the police station.  He summoned to Mr. AK-47 who was standing guard and jabbered something in Runyoro.  Mr. AK then motioned to us with the 47 to move inside.  We were led through the front door, down a hallway, around a corner, and into a holding room.  A superior officer then proceeded to question us and berate us for violating the law.  (Keep in mind that Henry’s two-year nightmare began in this very police station and I could tell that he was rather uneasy).  We were instructed to produce identification.  Thankfully, Henry didn’t have any with him.  While I had brought my passport with me on this trip, I had left it at the hotel, so I pulled out my driver’s license.  My wallet was bulging with cash (a fact not unnoticed by the officer), and I was wearing one of those money pouches around my neck that was swollen with more shillings than this officer would make in several years.  It, too, was rather noticeable under my Pepperdine Law t-shirt.  He demanded to see the pictures we had taken.  Since he said “pictures,” I pulled out my still camera (keeping the video camera stowed in my safari pants’ pocket) and showed him the photos I had taken of Henry at his home and at his school.  I had yet to take any pictures of the police station.

“So you did not take any pictures of the police station?”

“No, no pictures.  I was planning to take pictures, but had not yet done so.”  Another minor deception – sorry mom and dad.

He held us there for about ten minutes (likely looking for a, well, private donation), but I gave him nothing other than a description of who I was working for while in Uganda and what I was doing.  That helped, but only a little.  We were then taken to his superior who refused to listen to us at all, instead choosing to lecture us about violating Uganda law.  When it became clear that I was not in the donating mood, he sent us to yet another official who demanded to see my passport before I could be released.  Stalemate.  After a few minutes of negotiating, he agreed to allow me and Henry to go to the hotel and get my passport while he held my driver’s license as collateral.  When we got to the hotel, I offloaded the video camera and all but 20,000 shillings (about $8.50), and grabbed my passport.  Henry insisted on coming with me, but I insisted that he stay behind.  I won.  So me and Tango (the driver) headed back to the police station.

The official was standing in front of the police station holding my driver’s license.  I handed him my passport (including the 6-month visa that backed up my story).  He inspected the passport carefully and demanded to see the camera and questioned me about whether I took any pictures.  After satisfying himself that there were no pictures, he again told me that it was against the law to take a photograph of a police station without first getting permission.  In retrospect, I probably shouldn’t have, but I then said, “OK, then can I have your permission to take a picture of the police station right now?”  I actually said that.  He looked like he was considering hitting me, but simply said “no.”

The dinner with Henry’s family was very nice, and we enjoyed getting to know them a bit better.  I hope to have fewer surprises tomorrow, other than surprising Henry’s family with some cows.

An Unforgettable Day in the Court of Appeals

I arrived at 8:45 a.m. for the 9:30 a.m. announcement of the appellate decision in the Ribbens legal guardianship appeal.  They had been denied legal guardianship at the trial court over sweet little 20-month-old Nya not because they were not perfectly fit parents (they are), and not because Nya is not an abandoned child (she is), but because the trial court judge interpreted Ugandan law not to permit legal guardianship by non-Ugandans unless the would-be legal guardians also complied with the adoption laws.  The adoption laws require non-Ugandans to foster parent the child in Uganda for three years before an adoption can be granted.  Many trial court judges have been granting applicants legal guardianship to skirt the adoption laws, and so a split had developed among the courts.  Today, the court of appeals resolved that split.

At about 9:15 a.m., Sara and Nya arrived with a friend and we all waited together . . . until 11:10, when the Registrar called them in for their ruling.  The Registrar read the entire opinion – about twenty pages – as we hung on every word.  Ugandan appellate decisions are very thorough, and unlike those in the United States, they don’t reveal how they are ruling until the very end.  As a rule, Ugandans speak very softly, and the Registrar did not violate this rule.  We strained to hear as he read the opinion, which began by thoroughly summarizing the trial court opinion.  It then summarized in detail the arguments made by counsel during the oral argument.  Next, the opinion summarized all of the relevant principals of law.  It then turned its attention to the factual record, describing each of the exhibits, affidavits, and findings of the welfare officers in both Uganda and the United States with respect to the fitness of the parents and the eligibility of Nya under Ugandan law based upon her status as an abandon child.  Surely, we are getting the result next?  We leaned forward, strained to hear with our hearts pounding and heard very clearly . . . a description of the points of error alleged by the Ribbens’ lawyer.  C’mon dude, we are on page 18, give us a hint – did the Ribbens prevail or not?

“We declare Andy and Sara Ribbens to be the legal guardians of Nya with the full right to take her to the United States” (or words to that effect).  Tears.  Lots of them.  Nya slept through the entire thing.

The opinion was unanimous.  And not only did the Ribbens win, but another couple whose case had been consolidated with theirs also prevailed.  And not only did that couple win, but all other would-be adoptive parents in Uganda won.  The brush is now clear for legal guardianships in Uganda.  This case created the precedent necessary to open the doors of the orphanages in Uganda so that hundreds (perhaps thousands) of these orphans will finally have families.

It was such a blessing to be able to be there when Sara called Andy and told him through her tears, “She is ours, she is finally ours.”  I filmed the phone call, but will leave it to Sara to share it if she chooses to do so.

Hopefully, the visa process will run smoothly and the Ribbens family can be united in the United States within the next couple of weeks.

It was a good day.  Thanks for your prayers and well wishes.

To read Sara’s post from her blog today, click here.

Henry’s National Exam Results

Today was a very significant day in the life of Henry, the Uganda boy I met during my first trip to Uganda.  Today, the national test results were released – Uganda’s version of the SAT.  Before getting to the results, here is a quick primer on the Ugandan school system:

Children start school in Uganda at around the age of six in what is called Nursery School, which is akin to our Kindergarten.  From there, they go to Primary School for seven years, commonly referred to as P1-P7.  A few years ago, Uganda passed legislation that purports to guarantee free public education for Primary School, though the legislation limited this to four children per family and most families have more than four kids.  Unfortunately, this doesn’t work as well as it was intended to work.  In the villages (half or more the country), a good percentage of the children don’t finish Primary School because (i) the family cannot afford the school supplies (not included in the “free” part), (ii) the family cannot afford for the kids not to be tending crops or animals, or (iii) the family doesn’t value education enough to send the kids to school.  In addition to these “free” government Primary Schools, there are quite a few private schools that a good portion of the population cannot afford.  The student/teacher ratio in Ugandan Government Primary Schools is 49/1, but this is much lower at the private schools.

At the end of P7, the children all take a national exam to determine which of them will graduate to Secondary School.  There are some scholarships available for government Secondary Schools, but most Ugandans have to pay to continue after Primary School.  Consequently, only 27% of Ugandan children make it through Primary School to Secondary School.  (By analogy, this would mean that only 27% of American kids make it to 8th grade).

Secondary School is broken into two parts.  The first four years are called “O” level (S1-S4), and the last two are called “A” level (S5-S6).  These designations mirror the British model.  At the end of “O” level (S4), the students all take a national exam to determine whether they will advance to “A” level.  That is the exam Henry was just finishing taking when I came to his graduation from S4 last November.  (I posted about his graduation here).

The results were released today (about ten days late) and Henry did fantastic.  The students take ten subject exams and get a score between 1 and 10 on each subject, with 1 being the best and 10 being the worst.  Of the ten scores, the highest 8 are totaled for what is called the “Aggregate Score.”  The best possible Aggregate Score is 8, which represents a 1 in each of the best 8 subjects.  The Aggregate Scores are then divided into four divisions, with the First Division being the best.  An Aggregate Score of 32 or lower qualifies as First Division, and this year, the cut off for the First Division was the top 8.5% of all takers.

Henry’s Aggregate Score was 18, which likely puts him in the top 2-4% of all takers.  I could not be more proud of him.  And this after spending two years in prison, not able to learn or even speak English during this time.  Here are his individual subject scores:

Agriculture – 1

Chemistry – 1

Divinity – 2

Physics – 2

English – 3

Geography – 3

History – 3

Mathematics – 3

Commerce – 3

Biology – 5

Within each subject, a score of 1 or 2 is categorized as “With Distinction.”  And the percentage of students who meet this “With Distinction” category varies by subject.  So, for example, only 0.6% of students made a 1 or 2 in Chemistry.  Accordingly, Henry’s score of 1 in Chemistry likely placed him in the top 0.3% of all Ugandans.  Similarly, only 1.5% of Ugandans scored a 1 or 2 in Physics, so Henry’s 2 in that subject put him in the top 1.5% of the country.

Henry’s career goal is to become a doctor.  After independent research and talking to as many people as possible, I have concluded that the best “A” level program in the country for those wanting to become doctors is at Uganda Martyrs Namugongo Secondary School.  (One of the two Ugandans currently enrolled at Pepperdine (George Kakuru) went to this Secondary School).

Being intimately familiar with the Parable of the Persistent Widow (Luke 18:1-8), I have decided to make Uganda Martyrs my second home until the final enrollment decisions have been made.  Accordingly, I camped out in front of the Head Teacher’s office yesterday until I was allowed to go in.  He was very friendly and professional, but told me that I needed to come back when the national results were released.  So, when they came out, I went back.  Unfortunately, he was out of the office, but I met with a couple others, including a current teacher.

The program into which Henry wants to be admitted (biological sciences) is the most competitive program at the most competitive school.  Yikes!  While the Aggregate score is very important (their presumptive cutoff for this program is 11 or 12), the scores on Chemistry, Physics, and Biology are the most important.  As noted above, Henry’s Chemistry and Physics scores are spectacular, but his Biology score falls about with the top 10-12% of Ugandans.  I fear that this will be an uphill battle, but will not give up easily.

In order to officially apply at this school, I need to have Henry’s birth certificate, baptismal certificate, and official test results (I got a summary of them via text message today).  His birth and baptismal certificates are in Hoima (five hours away) and his official results are in Gulu (six hours away).  The deadline to submit the application is Tuesday of next week, and the decisions will be made the following day or two.

Since there is no FedEx in Uganda, getting documents from Point A to Point B is rather, well, complicated.  Providentially, the Gashes and the Gregstons (our Twin Family) were already planning to go to Hoima this weekend for a “shopping spree” – more about that here.  Doubly providentially, John Niemeyer (Country Director for Restore International, the organization that runs the school from which Henry graduated) was planning to drive to Kampala from Gulu today, but fell ill.  Consequently, he is coming later in the week and will have the official results with him.  Accordingly, I should have everything I need in order to submit Henry’s application in person on Monday.  Henry and I would both appreciate your prayers.  Please pray that I will not have “occupy” the Head Teacher’s office until he finally admits Henry just to get rid of me.

Tomorrow I will post with the court of appeals’ decision in the Ribbens’ adoption case.